Discovering Calabria
by Mark Probst
Imagine for a second that you are able to go back in time and visit a simpler Italy, where local communities are in tune with one another, and the small shops and restaurants are family owned, often passed down through the generations. Add to this, unbelievable sandy beaches, one after another, and the beaches are mostly public beaches, teeming with Italians, hanging with family and friends, swimming in beautiful, warm, turquoise water.
Welcome to Calabria, one of Italy’s least touristed region, and maybe it’s most beautiful. In addition to the beautiful landscape of Calabria, the food of the region, the warmth of the people, and the cost of enjoying this mostly untouristed paradise is really hard to believe. That is until you’ve experienced it.
“You can take the Calabrese out of Calabria,but you can’t take Calabria out of the Calabrese.”
Muri Steegen
Where Have You Been All of My Life?
Spending time in Italy during the summer is absolutely divine, but it does come with a few downsides. Tourists from all corners of the world flock to the beloved nation, and not just to cities like Florence, Venice, and Rome. The entire country is bustling with people running all over the boot, on planes, trains and automobiles to see iconic sites that are seemingly everywhere. This not only makes travel a little more hectic at airports, rental car pickups, and train stations, but it makes it a lot more expensive as well.
Italy has 20 regions, some more famous than others, like Tuscany, Lazio, Veneto, and Sicily. Regions like Basilicata, Molise, and Calabria don’t receive as much attention, but they still have so much to offer. This was our first trip to Calabria, and it didn’t take long after we arrived for us to wonder why it had taken us so long.
The Pearl of Calabria
Most people have heard of Tropea. Known as the Pearl of the region, Tropea is a dramatic stone city suspended atop a vertical cliff, which overlooks a gorgeous beach with blue and turquoise water gleaming throughout.
The picturesque landscape of the historic area appears in many travel magazines these days, but it’s not often that seeing a glamorous destination in person lives up to well-curated travel photos. We would contend it’s even better.
Driving into Tropea you don’t get the sense that you are headed to some international destination worthy of Conde Nast. Even after you make enter the historic center and the centuries old buildings start to envelope you, it still has the feel of a small town full of locals going about their business. But as you walk down Corso Vittorio Emmanuelle, or one of the other streets that take you to the very northern part of the cliff overlooking the water, you immediately understand how special it is.
From Hercules to a Bevy of Empirical Rule
Throughout it’s rich history, Tropea has been ruled and influenced by the who’s who of past empires, which much of the architecture exemplifies today. Legend has it that Hercules actually discovered Tropea. Located on the Costa degli Dei, which translates to Coast of the Gods, the legend states that Hercules found Tropea and made it one of his ports.
The name Tropea itself is said to be derived from the Greek word of tropaia, meaning trophies. The Greeks occupied the area in and around Tropea from approximately the 4th century BC until sometime in the 3rd Century BC, when the Romans took over.
The Romans built many structures in the area, and their ancient baths are still visible today in Parghelia, just north of Tropea. The Romans also built their commercial port in Formicoli, in Santa Domenica, just south of the city.
After the Romans, the Byzantines also used Tropea as an important port, based on its strategic location along the coast of the Tyrrhenian Sea. The Normans were next, followed by the Angevins and the Aragons.
Many of these empires left their indelible mark on Tropea, including the iconic sanctuary on the rock, Santa Maria del’Isola, built by the Byzantines – And the beautiful Cattedrale di Maria Santissima di Romania, built by the Normans in the 12th century.
Why Calabria is So Special
One of the main reasons Calabria is more exciting to us than even Puglia, which we loved exploring last year, are the beaches. That is not to disparage the beaches of Puglia, they are amazing, but the water off the cost of the Costa degli Dei is warm, and the color of the water is absolutely divine. Combine that with a lot of the coastline being long, soft-sand beaches, often with a dramatic rise of cliffs as your backdrop, the beaches of Calabria were more appealing to us.
The other benefit to our favorite beaches in Calabria are their location on the west coast. Deborah and I have been west coasters most of our life, and sunsets are very important to us. The sunsets in Calabria are absolutely stunning, especially with the Aeolian islands on the horizon adding to the nightly show. Additionally, it’s a plus for us that Sicily is an easy drive or train ride from much of the region.
During our summer stay in Calabria, we really enjoyed that much of the region is mostly untouched by large scale tourism. There are a plethora of incredible coastal towns that still possess that small town feel, seemingly like it has been that way forever. This identity of being a real Italian community, unchanged like many other Italian cities or regions to the north, was echoed by many Calabrese we met and spent time with. They raved about Calabria being the last real part of an Italy past, and that feeling of authenticity was wonderful.
““It is hard to imagine a civilization without onions.”
Julia Child
Holy Sweet Tropea Red Onions
Like a lot of people, a major draw to Italy for us is the food and the wine. Every region of the country has their own variety of wines, distinct version of olive oil, prosciutto, cheese, etc, and Calabria did not disappoint.
Famous for their red onions, their n’duja, and their burgeoning wine region, to name a few, Calabria’s cuisine and wine was not only at the top of our list for reasons to come back, but we felt it deserved an entirely separate article. Read More
The California Effect
Being Californians, we’ve been lucky from an outdoor activities perspective. On the same weekend, you can hang out at a beautiful beach, snow ski at a top-notch resort, go wine tasting at some of the best wineries in the world, or go hiking at one of 9 National Parks in the state.
Aside from a plethora of medieval towns with incredible castles overlooking gorgeous beaches, we were surprised to find out that Calabria has many of those same attributes. The region of Calabria has 3 national parks, Sila, Aspromonte, and Pollino. The parks not only provide wonderful camping, hiking trails, rivers and lakes, and natural reserves, but in the winter months, Sila National Park becomes a snowy paradise, as skiers and snowboarders take over the area.
The beautiful beaches are seemingly in all corners of the region, on both coasts, but often the mountains rising above the beaches are excellent for hiking and provide amazing views.
Unfortunately, another similarity between Calabria and California is their ongoing battle with wildfires in the summer. Multiple times we had fires close to the house we rented, and once we even had to evacuate as the fire was consuming the garden next door. Part of it is the hot, dry conditions, but our neighbors and manhy of the locals also believe much of it is due to arson.
This was true with the horrific fires that were set in the Aspromonte National Park, and other forested areas that have ravaged southern Italy over the last few years. Some say it’s the work of organized crime using fire as a tool for intimidation. Others told us it was just disgruntled citizens, unhappy with the government and the economic status quo.
Don’t Bring Up the “M” Word
Speaking of organized crime, Calabria’s infamous history regarding the Mafia is well documented. The ‘Ndrangheta organization, which many Calabrese claim is mostly a thing of the past, garnered much attention in the 1970’s, 80’s and 90’s for large scale cocaine trafficking, and kidnappings, including the alleged kidnapping of the grandson of American oil tycoon John Paul Getty in 1973.
While there are many current news articles that claim the organization is alive and well with a very profitable narcotics business, a number of Calabrese we spoke with mostly agreed that their influence was not felt in day to day life. But, they also agreed it was probably best not to talk about it.
From the Tyrrhenian, to the Ionian, and Back Again
If you want grand, dramatic castles, overlooking beautiful beaches, with a picturesque medieval town to go with it, Calabria just might be the place for you. From Pizzo and Scilla on the west coast, to Le Castella and Crotone on the other side of the region along the Ionian Sea, Calabria is loaded with amazing villages and towns, all with their own unique history and charm. We discovered a ton of these amazing villages, mostly on the coast as that is where our hearts live, but there were a few inland that were beyond incredible. Here are a few of our favorites we explored this past summer.
Pizzo
Approximately 45 minutes north of Tropea you will find Castello Murat. The castle was built by the Aragonese in the 15th century and sits perched on the edge over looking a protected beach and marina. A former King of Naples, and the brother-in-law of Napolean, Joachim Murat was executed by firing squad in the main hall of the castle in 1815.
Such is part of the rich history that is the town of Pizzo. Part of the province of Vibo Valentia, Pizzo’s history likely goes back thousands of years, but official records date it back to the 14th century as a fishing village.
The commune itself is actually a decent size as it spreads up the hill from the coast, but the area we love is the old town. It starts about half way up the hill, then winds it’s way down, past the Duomo di San Giorgio Martire, the castle, the main piazza, and down to the water. The views are stunning from above and below, and the feel of the town is somewhere between quaint and a touch of being manicured.
At times, Pizzo felt more touristy to us than Tropea, but the scale was smaller. We visited Pizzo a few times, and liked it more and more each time. While Pizzo beach in the heart of the old town is a little small, there are long, beautiful beaches in close proximity to the north and south of the city.
Scilla
Scilla is located in the soutwest portion of Calabria, where the mainland almost reaches out and touches Sicily. The ancient city is similar to Pizzo from a layout perspective, as it has a grand castle overlooking a long stretch of water below, with a dramatic rise of cliffs behind the coast. Scilla also has its roots as a fishing village, and much of the town is still exactly that.
The beach in the center of the village is quite long and full of restaurants and cafes. The promenade wraps around a promontory point and the cliff that holds the Castello di Ruffo, placing you on the marina side with numerous outstanding seafood restaurants and local shops.
The village holds its place in Greek mythology lore as being the site of the sea monster Scylla home, supposedly living in an area around the rocks underneath the castle. We absolutely loved our lunch at Il Principe, our time walking around Scilla, and our afternoon on the beach. Scilla is the first area north of Reggio Calabria where the water is not being dramatically by the currents of the Straits of Messina, so it’s much more pleasant for swimming.
Scilla is also an hour drive from Messina in Sicily if you time the ferry right. All of these attributes had us loving Scilla and left us wanting more. We can’t wait to go back.
Crotone
The history of Crotone dates back 710 BCE, when it was founded and flourished as a port city for the Magna Graecia, a name given by the Romans to the Greek-speaking coastal areas of Southern Italy. Nowadays, Crotone is still a successful port city along the Bay of Taranto, but is also a vibrant seaside community with a fun promenade along the water, loaded with beaches, restaurants, and lively spots to enjoy a beverage with a view.
Crotone’s ancient history also remains a rich part of the city, as the Castello di Carlo V overlooks the area between the old town, the Basilica Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, and and the bay. Built in the 9th century by the Byzantines to protect the city from attacks, the large castle has undergone several changes over the centuries, and worth touring.
Crotone not only has a great layout from the elevated historic old city, to it’s more modern buildings around the bay, but the mixture of architectural styles over numerous centuries adds to the character and beauty of the ancient waterfront metropolis.
Additionally, Crotone has created mini bays/swimming holes all around the bay for each smaller beach, providing safe, fun areas to swim and play in the water. We were there in August and the beach was packed full of Italians living it up.
Le Castella
So many beach towns in southern Italy have a grand castle protecting it’s bay and village, but few are as impressive as the Punta delle Castella, or Le Castella. Legendary stories, such as Hanniba holing up there towards the final years of the 2nd Punic Wars, are just the beginning of this castle’s rich history. Dating back to 5th century BC, when the Greeks built the first fortress in the area, the site has been a strategic location for thousands of years.
While parts of the foundation of the ancient structure are still evident and protected in the current castle, it was during the Aragonese period of rule in the 15th century that the fortress took on its current form.
And if this amazing castle wasn’t enough to make you visit this village along the Ionian Sea, the long beautiful beaches wrapping around the castle, along with the picturesque light blue and green water, should do the trick. The town is also fun, with a nice promenade elevated above the water, and plenty of places to eat fresh seafood with a lovely panoramic view of the castle.
Santa Severina
Sometimes I feel like I am repeating myself, but Santa Severina is one of the coolest hilltop medieval villages I’ve ever been in. A short 30 minute drive inland from Crotone, the town sits approximately 1000 feet high atop a hill, with long rolling valleys to each side. Approaching the hill, you see this majestic castle and town perched high in the sky, and you can see the winding road leading up to it. The drive up the hill takes you through the modern portion of Santa Severina, where most locals live today, and then after some more dramatic zig-zagging, you arrive at the top. As you drive through the walls and see the huge castle accompanied by the surrounding vistas, you’re sure THIS is the most impressive Italian hilltop town you’ve ever seen. Besides the valleys and surrounding mountains, you can see all the way out to the Ionian Sea. The views are just stunning.
Similar to Crotone, Santa Severina was part of Magna Graecia, and passed on through many empires. Originally named Siberene, it was during Byzantine rule that the name was changed to Santa Severina. The enormous castle was constructed under Norman rule, and is one of my favorite castles in Southern Italy. The main square adjacent to the castle, Piazzo Campo, is the center of town, and offers a multitude of restaurants, cafes, gardens, and the Cathedral of Santa Anastasia. We ate at a fabulous restaurant called Sofrito in the shadow of the castle as the sun set behind us.
The Aeolian Islands
The Aeolian Islands, also known as the Lipari Islands after their largest island, are a volcanic archipelago made up of seven islands located off the coast of Calabria, in the Tyrrhenian Sea. Stromboli, the most northern island of the bunch, is so active, it constantly has smoke billowing out of the top, and at night, it puts on quite the spectacle.
The sunset and lava light show were part of our evening ritual as the house we rented had an amazing view of Stomboli. We loved watching the sun set next to the giant volcano, making it even larger as the pink hues took over the sky. We were so enamored, we took a trip out to the islands, touring Panarea and Stromboli. Both are as beautiful up close as they are from the coast.
Just over 15,000 people live on the islands, typically residing in the handful of picturesque seaside villages that accent the landscape. Black sand beaches, high-end restaurants, and some pretty posh real estate, are also part of this treasured archipelago. The islands are heavily touristed through the warmer months for day tours, and overnight stays. We were able to walk around portions of Stromboli, and see the volcano spewing out lava from the boat ride back to Tropea. It is quite impressive up close, but I think I prefer the view from afar.
Access to Calabria – Planes, Trains, & Automobiles
A drawback for many people regarding Calabria versus some of the other summer beach destinations, is the coastline can feel remote at times. One example is the closest international airport to Tropea is Lamezia Terme International Airport, which is an hour drive, and most of the drive is on a slow moving two lane road. It is easy to take the train along the coast, which stops in most of the seaside towns. The bus is also very efficient, but the coast, especially around Tropea, is a hike from the autostrada. We found this to be a positive, and the more remote feeling endeared us to the region even more.