Tel Aviv
by Mark Probst
Tel Aviv was not what I was expecting. Knowing it was a major international city on the Mediterranean Sea, I probably should’ve expected a diverse, beach-laden, high-tech metropolis with a formidable skyline, incredibly vibrant and hip neighborhoods, amazing restaurants and bars, and a killer nightlife. For some unexplainable reason, I was expecting Tel Aviv to be a little more low-key, maybe even a little more religious. Maybe, naively I was conflating Jerusalem and Tel Aviv’s proximity as cities that they would be similar. This was not the case, at least the Tel Aviv we experienced, especially the low-key part. The city was energy, emotion, and a whole lot of fun at every turn.
“Tel Aviv is the most exciting place to eat in Israel.” — Yotam Ottolenghi
When we arrvied in Tel Aviv, it was a bit chaotic. It was March of 2022, so there were still some heavy COVID restrictions in place, including a required COVID test 24 hours prior to taking off from Athens, and a mandatory test upon arrival. To say the COVID testing tent in Ben Gurion airport was a bit jolting, young children naturally protesting the deep nose swab, is an understatement. Still, the operation was remarkably well organized, and after our test, and negative results, we were on our way. We were not only elated to finally get to Israel, but we have great friends who live in Tel Aviv, and we were excited to hang out with them during our stay. Jumping on the train, which is really easy to catch right outside of the airport, we were in the heart of Tel Aviv within 20 minutes. We were ready to get settled at our place, and then head out exploring the city.
Beach Life in Tel Aviv
It’s always a gift when traveling if you can meet up with friends and share the experiences with them. It’s even better when it’s a place where you’ve never been, and they’re either from there, or have lived there for some time. We love the locals tour, and we got it, and more. We started at one of their favorite spots, and one that showcases the city as it should be seen, the fabulous beaches of Tel Aviv. The center of Tel Aviv is lined with beautiful beaches, and many days we would start at Hilton Beach, and walk for an hour from one beach to the next. Usually we would end our walk at Aviv or Charles Clore beach, for a bite at a seaside restaurant, or some street food. We were there in late March, and the weather was lovely. Most of the beaches were quite busy for March on the Mediterranean, but as our hosts confirmed, you could definitely tell how fun and packed they get during the summer months.
The food in Tel Aviv is incredible. The culinary scene, which has been heralded for years by numerous food and travel magazines like Conde Nast and SAVUER, is full of amazing choices that will impress even the most picky of palates.
From small street vendors, stalls, and neighborhood cafes serving savory staples like shawarma, falafel, knafeh, hummus, and shakshuka, to high-end restaurants, serving exquisite fish kufta. It’s Mediterranean cuisine with a distinctly unique character of herbs and spices, and recipes, that has been cultivated over centuries.
We were treated to our first bourekas (small pastry stuffed with a variety of fillings), sabich (laffa bread stuffed with fried eggplants, hard boiled eggs, chopped salad, parsley, amba and tahini sauce), knafeh (spun pastry called kataifi, soaked in a sweet, sugar-based syrup called attar, layered with cheese that is cooked and topped with chopped pistachio), and muhallebi (milk-based pudding mixed with rice and flour, topped with ground pistachios, and rose water). We were also lucky enough to get authentic homemade shakshuka from our hosts, which was the best breakfast we had during our time in Israel.
We honestly couldn’t get enough of Israeli fare. In addition to the food being phenomenal, it’s also incredibly healthy, and pairs well with the remarkable Israeli white wines we tasted while we were there.
So Much to See
Thankfully for the locals tour, we visited a lot of different parts of the city during our stay in Tel Aviv, many of which we probably wouldn’t have seen, or at least not in the same light. Our time was limited on this trip, but there were a few areas we spent time in and really enjoyed.
Jaffa, Yafo in Hebrew, was one of the neighborhoods we absolutely loved. We wandered the narrow alleys absorbing the neighborhood through it’s historic streets, magnificent food, and it’s vaulted gardens and views of the sea.
Jaffa’s history dates back thousands of years, earning it the distinction of being one of the oldest port cities in the world. The strategic location along the Mediterranean coast has made it a crossroads of civilizations, a melting pot where numerous cultures have converged over the ages. Phoenicians, Egyptians, Greeks, Romans, Crusaders, Ottomans, and more have all left their mark on Jaffa.
Jaffa also had an interesting hodgepodge of high-end shops selling amazing crafts and antiques, and basic secondhand retailers, selling used goods, often in a thrift store or yard sale style fashion. We know we only touched the surface of Jaffa, and we can’t wait to go back and spend more time in this historic area.
Florentin
One of our favorite areas to hangout and soak in the festive vibe was Florentin, where it’s all about artists and musicians. Located just across the tracks from one of Tel Aviv’s oldest, affluent, and storied neighborhoods, Florentin thrives on a different scale.
The street art and studios are plentiful in Florentin and create a vibrancy to a neighborhood that is famous for it’s gritty edge. Innovative bars and restaurants have an ultra cool vibe about them, as do the people hanging out in the neighborhood.
We went to this great space called Beit Romano, which is a giant artsy complex with retail on the bottom floor, residential above, and a giant open space in the center where people gather, eat, drink, music is played, and events are held. We had a fabulous dinner here, eating some amazing Romano style pizza from Teder, the brainchild of Eyal Shani, one of Israel’s most famous chefs.
The pizza is incredible and the setting is lively as a radio station, which is part of the bar/restaurant, streams live music and concerts. At night it can get raucous with DJ’s and other live concerts.
Neve Tzedek
If you like historic architecture, mixed with art galleries, high-end boutiques, and outright charm, Neve Tzedek is for you. The neighborhood, which is actually older than the municipal city of Tel Aviv, developed in the late 19th century as a group of Sephardic Jewish families looked for more space outside of Jaffa. The development of the neighborhood was heavily influenced with elements of Art Nouveau and the Bauhaus movement, which is thankfully still evident today.
By the 1960’s, as Tel Aviv continued to expand, Neve Tzedek was left for dead by the city as the neighborhood had become full of buildings with serious deferred maintenance. This was exacerbated by a lack of residential and commercial investment. The city even considering razing the neighborhood to make way for high-rise buildings. Thankfully, historic conservationists stepped in and were able to save and help preserve the area.
Over the last 50 years, the neighborhood has become a highly coveted spot, gentrifying and seeing money pour in with a focus on renovating unique and historic architecture. Walking the narrow streets of Neve Tzedek feels like a different world, partially frozen in time, but also part theme park. Shabazi, one of the main streets in the enclave, is a fun place to hang out, and even throw a birthday party, which we did for our friends 49th. It was a blast, and it was great to spend time in this fabulous neighborhood and be a part of the celebration.
Picturesque Tree-lined Boulevards
Tel Aviv is a wonderful city to walk around and be out in the sunshine. We did a lot of walking along the numerous beaches the city has to offer, but we also did long walks along its grand, pedestrian friendly boulevards. Rothschild Boulevard is the most iconic of these thoroughfares. The famed boulevard is home to a mix of architectural styles, from Bauhaus gems to modern skyscrapers, creating a unique juxtaposition that echoes the city’s evolution. Ben Gurion Boulevard is another one of these festive paths, and one we walked regularly on our walk from Yitzhak Rabin square to the beach. Bike paths, cafes, and parks for kids feature prominently on these popular arteries , and lots of dogs too!
Road Trip!
While we were loving our stay in Tel Aviv, we had to make our way to the southern city of Eilat for our journey into Petra. So, we decided we would make a few days of it and see more of Israel outside of Tel Aviv and Jerusalem.
Our first stop was Masada, which was an amazing hike and sight to see. But after making that incredible climb in the midday heat of the dessert, we needed to cool off. Thankfully, the Dead Sea is close by, and while you’re not dipping your head under, or actually swimming in the water, it is nice to jump in and cool off.
It is a bit weird though once you’re in this historic body of water. The Dead Sea is ten times saltier than the ocean, and the level of buoyancy that it creates is a crazy sensation. You literally have to force your legs down if you want to stand up, and obviously, floating is very easy.
Israel’s “Grand Canyon”
The Dead Sea was already on our list, but our friends mentioned that we should also stop by Makhtesh Ramon, known as Israel’s “Grand Canyon.” We had never heard of it before so we were intrigued and decided to check it out.
Located in the heart of Israel’s Negev desert, Makhtesh Ramon, is one of the largest craters on earth, measuring more than 25 miles long, 5 miles wide and 1,300 feet deep. While maybe not as impressive as the actual Grand Canyon, it’s still a sight to behold, and we were glad we made the trip.
Eilat
Eilat was another surprise for us during our time in Israel. Full of large scale resorts and tourist activities to match, the beaches along the Gulf of Aqaba in Eilat are really nice. Additionally, the water is not only beautiful, but great for swimming, or some fun on a boat.
Home to the northernmost coral reef on the planet, Eilat is also a great dive destination, which we had no idea prior to our visit. Dive sites such a Japanese Gardens and Satil, are incredibly popular, and something we want to do when we come back.
The layout of Eilat around the water is nice as well. There is a long boardwalk promenade full of restaurants, bars and cafes, that was receiving a complete makeover while we were there. There is also an inlet with a marina, and nice sandy beaches with beach clubs running in each direction.
With Mount Hezekiah and Mount Solomon overlooking the water, and the dramatic Jordanian mountains providing the backdrop from across the bay, Eilat is a great city to explore, soak in some sun and fun on the water, and worth the trip to southern Israel.