Ancient Temples and Amazing Wine: Get Lost in Sicily
by Mark Probst
I was busy hurrying Deborah along as we made our way down the steep grade. We had just toured an incredible 2000-year-old amphitheater built by the Greeks on top of Monte Barbaro, which overlooks a fertile valley all the way out to the sea, at least 30 miles away. As I looked back to see why I was now walking alone I saw Deborah was fixated on all the cacti that surrounded us. Every cactus was a deep black color that popped out from the green background, creating a very unique landscape that was begging for a picture. I waited as patiently as I could as I stared down the hill at the structure we really came to see, a Greek temple that was in incredible condition, standing majestically atop another hill in the near distance. I thought to myself, there’s no way that thing was built over 3500 years ago.
It was one many ancient temples we had seen that week within a couple hour radius of one another, most of which were in unbelievable condition for their age. Made from limestone instead of marble, the stone Greeks often used to build their temples, the condition of these hallowed temples was only part of the allure of these amazing structures. That we were touring them in Southern Italy made it all the more surreal.
“ Sicily is more beautiful than any woman.”
Truman Capote
The Mighty Magna Graecia
During the 8th to the 5th centuries BCE, the Greeks were doing what most successful civilizations throughout history have done, they were expanding, seeking out new worlds, new markets, and more resources through colonization. Two areas where this colonization is still remarkably evident is parts of southern Italy on the mainland, and the island of Sicily. Known as the Magna Graecia, which translates to “Greater Greece”, the historical impact the Greeks had on the area is still impressive. Cities like Crotone, on the east coast of Calabria along the Ionian Sea, embrace a culture of health and vitality, a reputation that dates back almost 3000 years. Early Greeks in Crotone were not only known for their physical strength, but they also produced generations of Olympic champions at the ancient games. Syracuse, one of the most powerful and important Greek colonies in the Mediterranean, continued to be an important cultural and economic center throughout the Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Normal periods of rule. But Syracuse is just one of the many ancient cities in Sicily that were inhabited and thrived during this period, and their legacy, cultural influence, and architectural accomplishments have stood the test of time.
A Valley Made for Gods
Just a few hours from Syracuse lies the Valley of Temples underneath the impressive hilltop city of Agrigento. It’s hard to match the stunning sight of the Parthenon atop the Acropolis, overlooking the Agora and pristine Temple of Hephaestus, but the Valley of Temples gives it a pretty good run for its money. The Temple of Concordia and the Temple of Juno (Hera) light up the valley with their incredible design and beauty. These gorgeous structures, flanked by seven other temples in the valley, some in better condition than others, draw you to their enormity and scale. It’s easy to see why the ancient Greeks chose this valley for their temples. There are numerous vistas to admire these sacred sites, looking down from Agrigento, or from across the valley. The breadth of the valley is striking, and the temples do a heavenly job of accentuating what is already incredibly beautiful.
Positioning as Important as Architectural Style
Similar to the Parthenon and the Temple of Hephaestus, architecturally the temples at Selinunte, Segesta, and in the Valley of the Temples, are Doric. The first of three architectural styles the Greeks used for their temples, the characteristics of a Doric temple include fluted columns with no base, a simple capital, and a frieze adorned with triglyphs. The Doric style is known for its simplicity, elegance, and equal proportions, that appealed to the aesthetic sensibilities of the Greeks. The Doric style would also feature prominently in Roman architecture, and is still copied by Western cultures today.
As important as the style of their Temples, the Greeks valued the positioning of these hallowed structures. Temples were typically elevated on an acropolis or hill, in an axial alignment, with the main entrance almost always facing east. The significance of the east facing Temples had many reasons, including the position to worship of the gods, to use the light of the rising sun, and to avoid facing west, which was seen as the way to the underworld.
“ Sicilians build things like they will live forever and eat like they will die tomorrow.”
Plato
The Pioneers of Sourcing Local
While we know today that one of the most significant advantages of local sourcing is its positive impact on the environment by reducing the distance that goods travel, for the Greeks in the 5th century BCE, that was not part of the thought process. Pentelic marble, which was white and highly coveted for its quality and durability, was used to build the Parthenon and other temples in Athens. It was quarried from Mt. Pentelicus, located about 10 mi from Athens. This type of marble was not readily available in Sicily, so they used local sandstones, often with varying colors. That is why the Temple of Concordia has such a distinct color compared to the temples in Greece.
Get a Wonderful Taste of Sicilian Wine
Italy is undeniably one of the powerhouses in the world for wine, boasting renowned regions like Tuscany and Piedmont. While these regions deserve their well-earned recognition, Sicilian wines often get overlooked. Nero d’Avola, Frappato, and Nerello Mascalese are three grape varieties that are well-suited to the warm, Mediterranean climate of Sicily. They are all relatively drought-resistant, which is important in a region that can experience long, dry summers. They are also all relatively high in acidity, which helps to balance the ripe fruit flavors in the wines.
Sicily offers a multitude of wine tasting options, from intimate visits at small family-run wineries, to grand estates with breathtaking views. We made our way across the island, stopping to taste vintages from different regions, and from different levels of production. Our focus was on smaller, artisanal wineries, but we did stop at few larger producers. It was educational to hear different perspectives of wine making in Sicily, and about the business in general from various Sicilian winemakers.
I enjoyed both the Nero d’Avola, and Nerello Mascalese grape. Nero d’Avola would be described as bold and full-bodied with aromas of black cherry, plum, and spice. Nerello Mascalese which does well in the region around Mount Etna, thrives in the volcanic soil, producing wines that are light- to medium-bodied, with captivating flavors of red fruit, minerality, and a touch of smokiness.
Feudi di Pisciotto
Feudi di Pisciotto was one of our favorite wineries we toured. Located in southeastern Sicily near the hillside town of Niscemi, Feudi di Pisciotto is perched atop a hill, surrounded by rolling vineyards. The charming 18th-century farmhouse, meticulously restored and transformed into a luxurious wine relais, offers an unforgettable experience steeped in tradition. On our tasting tour, our guide spilled all the juicy details, how the property had been passed down for hundreds of years amongst nobility, and more recently, how American troops used the winery as a base during World War II. Left in ruins for decades after the war, the property was purchased and restored by it’s current owner, who is apparently a legend in Italian journalism and the current editor of a major newspaper in Northern Italy.
The history of the winery was great, but what really interested us was the actual restoration of the property. Beautifully redone, with an emphasis of restoring and leaving as much of the original buildings in place as possible, the winery, and newly attached boutique hotel, are incredible. The old “palmento,” a traditional winemaking facility that once housed large fermentation tanks, were transformed into fantastic tasting and event spaces. The guest rooms at the hotel are also part of the historic structures, each blending the rustic charm of exposed stone walls with modern amenities to ensure a comfortable and stylish stay. All of this was combined with a brand new, state of the art fermentation facility, below the old property, that combined the best of both worlds for the vintner.
“I love Sicily. It’s beautiful. It’s old. It’s Italy, but it’s not. I like the people—proudly mixed up, preyed upon by generations of invaders and a nearly ubiquitous fraternal organization that makes even the simplest transaction—like getting fruit to market—complicated. Sicilian food is exactly everything I love: the cuttlefish-stained pasta, street meat, inky wines, oily fishes. And for some reason, though I don’t speak Italian, I understand nearly every word in Sicily.”
Anthony Bourdain
Segesta and Selinunte
Along with the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento, Segesta and Selinunte are also renowned archaeological sites, and equally impressive.
The amazing Doric temple on the hill at Segesta, and the extensive ruins of Selinunte, including its acropolis and temples, provide an additional peek into the various lives and communities of the Magna Graceia thousands of years ago.
Segesta was founded around the 7th century BC by the Elymi, a people of possible Trojan origin. The area flourished as a trading center thanks to its strategic location near the coast and Mount Barbaro. The city starts at a relatively low elevation, and continues high up the mountain, which you can hike up to or take the bus provided with your ticket. There are numerous sets of foundations spread throughout, sites of where various buildings of the ancient city used to stand. Still in tact, and in considerably excellent condition, is the previously mentioned amphitheater overlooking the city and the valley out to the coast. The Temple of Segesta, located on a separate smaller hill below, was the temple I couldn’t wait to get to and it didn’t disappoint. The structure is in excellent condition for it’s age, and the way the temple sits by itself on it’s perch, in-between two taller hills, is just dramatic and cool to see from different angles.
Selinunte was established in 628 BC by Greek colonists from Megara Hyblaea. The city is vast and takes hours to walk between the various temples. The Temple of Hera, also known by Temple E (all temples were given a letter as a name by the archeologists working on the site), is in fairly good condition with most of the columns, capitals, and a good portion of the frieze still in place. Other temples, such as the oldest temple in the region (Temple C) has only one row of columns remaining upright with most portions of the fallen temple in piles on top of the foundation.
The city developed a rivalry with Segesta over contested land, which lead to long-lasting conflicts. Selinunte maintained an alliance with Syracuse, another powerful Greek city-state in Sicily, which aided in their own security. Eventually, Selinunte suffered a devastating defeat and destruction by the Carthaginians in 409 BC, marking the end of its major role in the region.
Tenuti di Fessina
Our other favorite stop on our Sicilian wine tour was the lovely Tenunti di Fessina. Silvia Maestrelli, and Roberto Silva, purchased this century old vineyard on Mount Etna 15 years ago with a desire to create a place of beauty between earth and spirit. The main grape grown on site is Nerello Mascalese, which grown in the volcanic fertile, rich soil of Etna, creates a rich and complex glass of amazing Sicilian wine that we absolutely fell in love with. We had a lovely tasting at the vineyard overlooking their vineyards and estate. We shared the experience with a couple from Cincinnati who were touring Sicily for the first time. The food served with the tasting was as amazing as the wine. We started with a tasty gazpacho, drizzled with a peppery olive oil made next door, topped with fresh made crispy croutons. The next course was the most amazing Suppli topped with fresh ricotta. Our third course featured the perfect selection of charcuterie. We finished with a healthy serving of Sicilian chocolate.