Fellini’s Beloved Rimini
Arriving in Rimini by train from Milan, we didn’t know exactly what to expect. We had done our typical research and knew it was a popular beach destination for Italians, especially during the summer months. We also knew it was Federico Fellini’s hometown and had a rich history. However, as we often find, you can’t truly know if you’ll like a place until you experience it firsthand.
Rimini is located in Emilia Romagna, a region we hadn’t spent much time in. With a history dating back over two thousand years, Rimini boasts many ancient sites from the Roman Empire. The city is packed with historic treasures from the past two millennia, offering a wide range of architectural and cultural experiences.
“Life is a combination of magic and pasta.”
Federico Fellini
Il Maestro
Approximately 150,000 people live in Rimini, with about double that in the province. It’s well-known among Italians as a popular beach getaway, especially during July and Ferragosto. Rimini is also famous as the hometown of Federico Fellini, where he developed a great appreciation for the city as a boy. Although Fellini only lived in Rimini for the first 19 years of his life (1920-1939), the city inspired him significantly and became a recurring theme in his films.
According to the legendary filmmaker, Rimini provided Fellini with a rich tapestry of childhood experiences. He was surrounded by the vibrant energy of the seaside town; with its beaches, circuses, and lively characters. These experiences left a lasting impression and often surfaced in his dreamlike and whimsical films.
While Fellini never filmed anything in Rimini itself, the city became a symbol of his childhood and a source of nostalgia. He often referred to it in interviews and even named his autobiography “Amarcord,” a Romagnol term meaning “I remember Rimini’s colorful characters.” The town’s atmosphere, with its blend of tradition and modernity, also influenced the settings in his movies.
The city of Rimini recognizes Fellini’s importance and has embraced its connection to the legendary filmmaker. The Fellini Museum is a fitting tribute to the hometown hero, truly conveying the essence, magic, and genius of Fellini and his films.
Beach Life in Rimini
Rimini’s beach is quite fantastic. Incredibly long, deep, and clean, the precisely manicured layout and maintenance give it a special feel. It’s also incredibly diverse in terms of age and type of visitor. While some beaches cater to amazing-looking couples or single people looking for a scene, and others promote families and safety for kids, Rimini has it all and welcomes everyone. With something for everyone to do, including playgrounds on the beach, water sports, pickleball courts, boats to rent, and outdoor gyms, the beach offers endless sun and fun, laid out in a very organized manner.
At the very north end of the main beach is the public portion, with the marina on the other side of the inlet canal. There’s a Ferris wheel, along with food trucks and other fun activities, and a great bike lane along the boardwalk. As the beach continues south, the businesses start at #1 and continue all the way to #160. It’s a long beach, and I understand that many people don’t like the vast array of umbrellas stretching out to the water. It bothered me at first as well. However, the beach had such a great, relaxed vibe that we enjoyed it.
“A different language is a different vision of life.”
Federico Fellini
The Enchanting Centro Storico di Rimini
Like most Italian cities, you can see where the urban center started many centuries ago. Typically, a historic center surrounded by ramparts; that often has a castle still standing, one or more churches within the walls, and other period buildings from the old city. It’s also common to find structures and monuments dating back two thousand plus years to the Roman empire. Rimini is no exception.
The Romans founded Rimini as Ariminum in 268 BC. The city’s strategic location at the intersection of two important roads made it a thriving military and commercial center. Two ancient monuments built by the Romans during the height of their empire still stand today: the Arch of Augustus and the Tiberius Bridge.
The Arch of Augustus dates back to 27 BC and magnificently marks the gateway to the city from the south. The Tiberius Bridge is located on the northern side of the historic center and was built a little later in the 1st AD. The two iconic sites are connected by the vibrant Corso d’Augusto, the main arterial road through the old town, now lined with shops and cafes.
On your walk between the two monuments, you pass through Piazza Tre Martiri, where recent excavations have unearthed remnants of a Roman Forum. Our favorite part of Rimini’s historic core was Piazza Cavour. The central square is surrounded by incredible architecture, including the 13th-century Palazzo dell’Arengo, the medieval Palazzo Garampi, and the neoclassical Galli Theatre. It’s a great square to sip on a Campari soda and soak in the Italian history and scene playing out around you.
Medieval Transformation
Following the fall of the Roman Empire, Rimini witnessed a period of instability, changing hands between Goths and Byzantines. In the 13th century, the Malatesta family rose to power, transforming Rimini into a cultural and artistic hub during the Renaissance.
Sigismondo Pandolfo Malatesta built the Castel Sismondo, a formidable fortress, and the Tempio Malatestiano, a stunning church showcasing a remarkable blend of Renaissance and Romanesque styles.
In 1509, Rimini fell under the control of the Papal States and remained so until 1860. The first bathing establishment opened in 1843, marking the beginning of Rimini’s transformation into a popular seaside resort town.
The Destruction of World War II and a City Rebuilds
During World War II, Rimini’s strategic location on Italy’s Adriatic coast made it a crucial point for the Allied advance. However, this also placed it directly in the path of fierce fighting between German and Allied forces. From late 1943 to early 1944, the city endured relentless bombing campaigns from both sides. The Luftwaffe (German Air Force) targeted Allied positions; while Allied forces aimed to disrupt German supply lines and fortifications. These relentless attacks resulted in immense destruction. More than 80% of Rimini’s historic center was reduced to rubble. Iconic landmarks like the Palazzo dell’Arengo and the Teatro Galli lay in ruins.
Following the war, the people of Rimini undertook a massive effort to rebuild. With limited resources and facing immense hardship, the city embarked on a long and arduous journey. Initially, the focus was on providing basic necessities for residents. Temporary shelters were built, and essential infrastructure like water and electricity were restored. Even amidst the pressing need for basic necessities, the city recognized the importance of preserving its historical identity. Efforts began to salvage and restore what remained of the city’s architectural treasures.
As reconstruction progressed, considerations were made for modern urban planning. Wider streets were constructed to accommodate increased traffic, and the city began to embrace its seaside potential. Tourism emerged as a significant factor in Rimini’s revival. By the 1960s, Rimini had evolved into a popular beach destination. Modern hotels and resorts started lining the coast, attracting tourists seeking sun, sand, and relaxation.
Rimini’s Grand Hotel
The Grand Hotel Rimini gained worldwide fame thanks to Federico Fellini’s 1973 movie, Amarcord, which immortalized its charm. Fellini loved the hotel and often recalled the hours he spent outside as a boy, peeking through the hedge to spy on the unreal world of the rich people. The hotel not only featured prominently in his work but was also a place he often stayed, including in the same room. Still celebrated by the hotel today, Fellini made his final phone call in that room before suffering a fatal heart attack.
Since its inauguration in 1908, the Grand Hotel Rimini has been a part of Italy’s history, a protagonist in the story of the Riviera’s development and Italian tourism. The hotel became a national monument in 1994 and often hosts events, wine tastings, and screenings of Fellini’s movies.
San Marino
San Marino is the world’s oldest and fifth-smallest republic. It’s a short drive inland from Rimini, approximately 30 minutes by bus. The journey there was an easy bus ride up a steep road on Mount Titano, with breathtaking views over the Emilia-Romagna coast. It’s said that on a clear day you can see all the way to Croatia from San Marino. The actual town of San Marino is small but majestic, with its own post office, stamps, and telephone system. But beyond that, its power lies in its beautifully preserved buildings and its tax-free status. For us, it just happened to be a milestone, so we gave it a little extra attention. Read more about our trip to San Marino.
Rimini in a Minute
We loved our time in Rimini. While the oversized European beach destination, with the nonstop sea of beach umbrellas, isn’t our typical scene and can seem a bit like a tourist trap, that wasn’t the vibe or experience we encountered. The beach was full of a variety of people, from Italian couples, young and old, to European families on vacation; to the locals who were all seemingly in magnificent shape. The restaurants were modestly priced, especially for how fresh and delicious the seafood and pasta dishes they were serving. The local wine was outstanding and incredibly cheap, and there was absolutely zero hustling or harassment of tourists. It was low-key and relaxed, and mostly full of Italians when we were there in mid-June.
Additionally, the boardwalk along the beach is full of outdoor gyms, benches, and areas for children to play, which were all being used. Rimini has a very healthy/fitness-conscious vibe that we really enjoyed. Combined with the history and layout of the city’s historic center, we could see ourselves spending more time in Rimini in the future.