Having a Ball in Australia’s Garden City
It’s been over 25 years since the Navy ship I served on pulled into Melbourne, Australia. I was in my early twenties, it was my first trip down under, and we were at the end of a lengthy deployment in the Persian Gulf during the summer months. Needless to say, a bunch of young sailors were eager for some liberty and Australian beer.
Arriving in Melbourne, I had no idea what to expect. At that age, I didn’t do much research before visiting new ports, and there weren’t countless travel articles or blogs to consult online. In fact, smartphones didn’t exist back then, and the internet wasn’t as widely used as it is today. Consequently, I got off the ship and walked into Melbourne for the first time with an open mind, excited to explore a new city and everything it had to offer. As it turned out, it had a ton to offer, see, and do, and we made the most of it. For four glorious days, we had a fantastic time running around the city. Little did I know that it would take almost three decades before I would return to this great city and somehow have an even better time on this trip.
Fortunately, I was able to do a lot more research prior to my second visit. Like many great cities in the world, Melbourne’s main artery is a river. The Yarra River, which starts 150 miles east in the Yarra Ranges, makes its way west through the Yarra Valley, finally cutting through the heart of Melbourne before emptying into Hobson Bay. The river is the lifeblood of the city, and many of the city’s events and celebrations take place along the river. Unlike other major cities, Melbourne also offers city beaches, numerous parks and green spaces in the central core, safe and easy mass transit, fresh and organic local produce sold at multiple open-air heritage markets, a vibrant nightlife, and all in a clean city with a diverse climate. Altogether, the combination of these characteristics provides a very high quality of life for Melbournians, which is why Melbourne is considered one of the most livable cities in the world.
Festive Riverwalk
January is a great time to visit Melbourne, not only because it’s their summer season, but also because the Australian Open is a major event, and the city is electric with anticipation. The city’s central layout enhances the event, as many festivities take place along the Yarra River, which flows through the heart of Melbourne. High-rise buildings line the river, while small boats and kayakers paddle below, passing converted barge restaurants and bars. We were staying a short walk from this vibrant corridor, which included a convenient light rail.
While the Yarra river has played a crucial role in Melbourne’s history, its revitalization has only been a significant focus in recent decades. The areas around the Yarra River have undergone a dramatic transformation with projects like the Southbank Redevelopment plan starting in the 1980’s, which focused on cleaning the river in addition to creating a more pedestrian-friendly and enjoyable experience along the river.
One of our favorite events on the river was the AFLOAT restaurant and bar. This converted barge annually hosts Australian Open viewing parties, and we enjoyed a day watching the matches on a giant screen while floating on the river and dipping our feet in the onboard pool. We visited several floating restaurants and bars during our time in Melbourne, but AFLOAT was our favorite.
Gardens and Green Space
With a population of around 5 million people, spread out over approximately 10,000 square kilometers, roughly twice the size of Barcelona, Melbourne is quite a large metropolis. The city does a great job of accentuating its huge green spaces throughout the city as parks and gardens are very important in large urban centers. Being there in summer, we visited a lot of these parks throughout our stay, most of them central and walking distance from where we were staying. Our favorite was the Royal Botanic Gardens in the heart of the city. A sprawling inner-city oasis, featuring themed gardens, tranquil lakes, and a vibrant array of plant life, the gardens feature the Australian Forest Walk, the Californian Redwoods Forest, and a gorgeous Rose Garden. You can also hire a gondola to take you around the lake, offering unique views of the park.
Located just north of the Botanical Gardens, is Kings Domain. Both located on the southern shore of the Yarra River, Kings Domain is perfect for picnics and leisurely walks while offering stunning city views. The park also features the war memorial, a the Sidney Myer Music Bowl venue.
Another favorite of ours was Carlton Gardens. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, renowned for its architectural significance and beautiful gardens, there was a lovely wedding going on when we visited, which added to the beauty of the park. At the center of the gardens is the Royal Exhibition Building. The impressive Renaissance-style dome with its grand halls, was built in 1879–1880 as part of the international exhibition movement.
The Fitzroy Gardens was another park we enjoyed spending time in. With beautifully designed flower beds and exotic plants, the gardens also feature pathways lined with statues and monuments that are fun to stroll through. The park is located in the heart of east Melbourne, and is walkable from the center core, or a quick tram ride along Flinders Street.
Rooftop Bar Life
A fun part of summer life in Melbourne are their rooftop bars. The city has numerous spots where you can order a cocktail from a nice perch and enjoy an elevated view of the city below. We visited a handful of rooftop bars during our stay, our favorite rooftop being Her Rooftop Bar in the CBD. With their own pre-made cocktails on tap, that were actually really good, Her has a great layout, vibe, and view.
One rooftop we loved hanging out at was Union Electric Bar. The bar didn’t have a great view of the city, but it made up for it with personality. Self-described on their website as “A cheeky little laneway cocktail bar and rooftop serving up the finest cocktails, craft beers, gin, rum, loud shirts and old school hip hop,” Union Electric Bar lived up to it all, and the bartenders were fun to talk to.
Another favorite of ours was actually where we were staying. Atop the Quincy Hotel, the Q bar offers great views of the city, delicious cocktails, and a festive happy hour that was always a fun way to start our evening out. We got to know the staff over our two weeks there, and they took great care of us.
Market Madness
Great cities typically have a great central market, so it’s telling that Melbourne has two. The most central is Queen Victoria Market, a huge open-air complex with covered areas, various stalls, and vendors. Known as Queen Vic to locals, the market opened in 1878 and is the largest open-air market in the Southern Hemisphere. We visited Queen Vic multiple times to shop, eat lunch, and enjoy live music on Wednesday nights and Saturday mornings.
In addition to the open-air portion, we loved the newer indoor section, divided between fresh seafood and an impressive selection of cheese and charcuterie. Enjoying local oysters, prawns, salmon rolls, and other snacks at the small side tables near the stalls was a regular lunchtime activity.
Another great market in Melbourne is the Southbank Market. Established in 1867, the market has been redeveloped and features modern stalls, outdoor seating areas, and numerous restaurants. The indoor stalls are also excellent, and you can combine eating with shopping for produce, seafood, stylish clothing, hats, and other items typically found at markets.
A quick guide to Melbourne’s Markets:
- Queen Victoria Market:
- Location: City Center
- Description: Melbourne’s iconic market, offering a vast array of produce, food, clothing, and souvenirs.
- Highlights: Night Market (Wednesday nights), live music, diverse food stalls.
- Prahran Market:
- Location: Prahran
- Description: A renowned food market with a focus on fresh produce, meats, cheeses, and gourmet goods.
- Highlights: High-quality produce, vibrant atmosphere, excellent for foodies.
- South Melbourne Market:
- Location: South Melbourne
- Description: A diverse market with a mix of fresh produce, food stalls, clothing, and homewares.
- Highlights: Lively atmosphere, good for browsing and finding unique items.
- St. Kilda Esplanade Market:
- Location: St. Kilda
- Description: A Sunday market with a focus on arts, crafts, and handmade goods.
- Highlights: Relaxed atmosphere, beachfront location, great for souvenirs.
- Rose Street Artists Market:
- Location: Fitzroy
- Description: A vibrant market showcasing the work of local artists and craftspeople.
- Highlights: Unique and handcrafted items, lively atmosphere.
City Beach Life
Another great feature Melbourne offers are city beaches. There are multiple beaches around Hobson Bay on the coastline of the Albert and Middle Park neighborhoods, approximately a ten-minute drive from the center of Melbourne. We chose to spend a day at St. Kilda Beach, eating a fabulous meal at Donovan’s, which we highly recommend. After a long lunch, we strolled along the sand before plopping down at a fun watering hole along the beach for some live music and Australian Open watching in the sun.
Other recommended beaches include Brighton Beach, Elwood Beach, and Port Melbourne Beach.
Yarra Valley
During our stay in Australia, we visited over six wine regions, including the Barossa Valley, Adelaide Hills, McLaren Vale, and Tasmania. The Yarra Valley region was also on our list, so during our stay in Melbourne, we booked a tasting tour of four wineries in the region, which included a tasting at Domaine Chandon, one of the six Domaine Chandon estates in the world.
Located about an hour out of the center of Melbourne, the Yarra Valley is a gorgeous, cool-climate wine region. Rolling hills dotted with vineyards are bathed in sunshine, the grapes ripen at a slower pace, resulting in elegant and distinctive wines. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay reign supreme in this region, with unique characteristics shaped by the Yarra Valley’s diverse microclimates. We had an amazing day of tasting great wine, eating delicious food, enjoying a lovely scenic drive, and meeting great people on the tour that enhanced the entire experience.
Some recommended wineries when visiting the Yarra Valley:
- Domaine Chandon: A renowned name in sparkling wine, this estate offers stunning views and a luxurious experience.
- Yering Station: One of the oldest wineries in the region, known for its elegant Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
- TarraWarra Estate: A contemporary winery with a focus on art and fine dining, offering sophisticated wines and breathtaking views.
- De Bortoli Wines: A family-owned winery with a long history, known for its diverse range of wines and beautiful grounds.
The Australian Open
Of course, this article would not be complete without detailing how much fun we had experiencing the Australian Open during our time in Melbourne. Being that we were in Australia for a month, we purposely timed our two weeks to coincide with the last two weeks of the event, mainly with the hope that an American or two would be in the semifinals, or maybe even finals. We knew our best shot was Coco Gauff, who had just won the US Open, and was ranked fourth in the world. So we took a chance and bought tickets to the women’s semifinal matches, and then we sat back and rooted hard for Coco the whole tournament.
Lucky for us, it worked out, and while we went to the courts multiple times over the two weeks, we were beyond excited when Coco beat Marta Kostyuk in the quarterfinals to advance to a semifinal matchup against Aryna Sabalenka. We geared up in the red, white, and blue, waved our stars and stripes, and cheered loud for Coco the whole match. Unfortunately, Sabalenka was on a tear during the entire Open, and she made light work of Coco on her way to back-to-back Australian Open titles. Still, we had a blast and it was a great night.
Getting Around
Melbourne is an easy city to get around. The city is very walkable, and that was mostly our choice for getting around the CBD, Southbank, Carlton, and Fitzroy. The center core also has numerous streets with light rail that you can hop on and off, with major thoroughfares where you can catch it east or west, and north and south. The buses around the city are excellent, and Uber is also easy to catch. We didn’t ride the metro trains in and out of the city this trip, but the friends we met there said it was their preferred way to get around as it was inexpensive, clean, and safe.
Using public transport in Melbourne is straightforward. You can purchase tickets from ticket vending machines at train stations, tram stops, and bus interchanges. There are also various contactless payment options available, including Myki cards and mobile ticketing apps.
For those who prefer a more active way to get around, Melbourne offers excellent cycling and walking infrastructure. The city has a network of dedicated bike paths and pedestrian walkways, making it easy to explore the city on foot or by bicycle. There are also bike-sharing programs available, making it convenient to rent a bike for short trips.