The Magical City Of Matera
2022 was the year of Puglia (Apulia) for us, as we spent a couple of months traveling all over the region. We loved our first encounters with various medieval cities, such as Gallipoli, Lecce, Ostuni, Polignano a Mare, Monopoli, and Otranto. But as much as we loved exploring these historic cities, none of them made an impression on us like the ancient city of Matera.
Walking this amazing city is to experience epic vistas at every turn. Sometimes, you can’t believe how incredible the view is, so you just stand there for a while and take it all in. From the Sassi to the caves, and the vast valley below, it is a lot of history and beauty to experience in one magical setting.
Deborah and I cannot recommend visiting this city enough.
Located in the region of Basilicata, which is the region adjacent to Puglia (the arch of the boot), Matera is a city unlike any other we’ve ever been in.
Designated as a UNESCO Heritage Site in 1993, the city has experienced continuous occupation dating back to the 10th millennium BC.
From the complex of cave habitations to the medieval city clinging on to the edge of the canyon, Matera is an unbelievably unique setting that must be seen in person to truly appreciate it.
The Importance of the Geography
The Gravina river flows below the gorge that houses Matera’s historic cave dwellings. The river also forms the dividing line between two southern regions of Italy, Basilicata and Puglia (Apulia). The canyon, with its rising limestone cliffs, is incredible to hike, especially while spotting numerous cave openings throughout.
In medieval times, the canyon provided a natural defensive position. Positioned on the edge of the canyon, the medieval portion of the city was not visible from the western approach.
There are distinct areas of historic Matera that have developed over centuries:
The Sassi (Rocks): The two settlement districts (Barisano and Caveoso) that descend from the top of the hill and burrow into the sheer rock faces. The settlements consist of approximately twelve levels, interconnected by a network of paths, stairways, and courtyards.
The Civita: The top of the hill, or central high ground, which supports the city’s cathedral and administrative buildings.
The Piano: In the 16th century, public life shifted outside the walls to the Piazza Sedile in the open plain to the west, with elite residences following shortly thereafter.
Change that Needed to Happen
Extreme poverty and horrific living conditions forced the Italian government to intervene and forcibly relocate people from areas in and around Matera’s Sassi in the 1950s, specifically the cave dwellings.
Even though a large portion of the population was displaced, some remained, making Matera one of the few places in the world where people can claim to have lived in the same houses as their ancestors for thousands of years.
Upon entering Matera, before we reached the Sassi, we came across a street market that was quite festive, as it was only a few weeks until Christmas. We were excited to do some holiday shopping as well, and along with various types of biscotti and other snacks, we came across the torrone guys (Italian nougat), and we were sold!
I absolutely love torrone, and seeing it made fresh, I was dying to get my hands on some. Torrone is typically made of honey, sugar, and egg white, with various types of nuts that can be mixed in. It was also perfect that Don Giovanni was making the nougat with his hair and tinted glasses. Has nougat making ever looked so attraente?!
The Perfect Setting for James Bond
If you recognize a lot of the scenery from the photos of Matera, it’s because numerous movies have been filmed there. Mel Gibson used it for The Passion of the Christ in 2004, and the recent Wonder Woman shot there as well. The remake of Ben-Hur in 2016, and Mary Magdalene in 2019, all used the ancient city to film various scenes. But the recent James Bond film, No Time To Die, takes the cake. The scene to kick off the film is not only loaded with awesome stunts and incredible cinematography, but it also showcases Matera’s dramatic and varied levels and landscapes, making for a fantastic opening sequence.