The Sacred Pak Ou Caves
Along the Mekong River, about 25 kilometers north of Luang Prabang, are two very unique caves. Tham Ting, and Tham Theung, the lower and upper caves that make up the Pak Ou caves, are sacred sites filled with thousands of Buddha’s. It is believed the caves have been a safe haven for Buddhists in the region to worship since the 8th century, centuries before it became the adopted religion of Laos.
After Buddhism became the national religion, it was customary every new year for Buddhists to bring a statue to the cave, culminating in the caves we see today.
Pulling up to the dock in our longboat, the lower cave is more open, and just a short walk up some very steep steps to view the numerous Buddha’s placed throughout the cave. The upper cave is not only more secluded and private, but it’s a decent hike up a stairway, with a dramatic rise up the hill.
Once at the top, the views are magnificent, and the true cave-like entrance is very mysterious. As you enter the cave, you notice it goes back quite a ways, and there are multiple areas where clusters of Buddhas are displayed with different mudras.
The lower cave was fairly crowded during our tour, as multiple boats had pulled in, but we somehow timed the upper cave when it was completely empty, which was really cool. The cave at the entry is very dark, and it gets even darker the further you go back. Once you’re deeper in the cave, your eyes start to adjust and you begin to see the multitude of statues in all shapes and sizes, as they suddenly appear all around you.
Cruising On The Mekong
Starting in China, flowing through Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, and dumping in the South China Sea, the Mekong River is the longest river in Southeast Asia, and the 12th longest in the world. We were excited to take a four hour cruise on the river on a classic longboat, stopping in multiple villages, and the Pak Ou Caves. Like so many important rivers throughout the world, the Mekong is an indispensable resource for so many who’s daily life, and livelihood, depends on the health of the river.
A Stop At Ban Xang Hai, aka Whiskey Village
Ban Xang Hai village was one of our stops along the Mekong on our way to the Pak Ou Caves. While it’s known as a touristy place to stop and shop for inexpensive local goods, and maybe even have a shot of snake or scorpion whiskey, we had a different experience. The handwoven fabrics, such as scarfs, napkins, table runners, and numerous other items they had on display, were extraordinary, and they were all being woven onsite in their respective shops. Their live/work community, and the products they were producing, were incredible. Also worth seeing while in Ban Xang Hai, is the Sang Hai Buddhist Temple at the end of the main corridor of shops.
Luang Prabang
Once the capital of Lane Xang, a Lao kingdom that occupied the area of present-day Laos, Luang Prabang remained the regions religious center even after the capital was moved to Vientianne under King Setthathirath in the mid 16th century.
Luang Prabang today is an incredibly quaint and picturesque town, located where the Nam Khan river flows into the Mekong river. Luang Prabang is actually 58 adjacent villages, 33 of which comprise the UNESCO Town of Luang Prabang World Heritage Site.
We loved the pace and feel of life in Luang Prabang. The town has a number of beautiful Buddhist temples throughout, vast night markets, beautiful Lao-colonial architecture, and amazing food.
Luang Prabang still feels untouched from mainstream tourism, and large scale development, although you see it starting to happen in little pockets, and I’m sure more is coming. Additionally, the cost of living is unbelievably low for the level of infrastructure and quality of life. It’s a beautiful place and we look forward to going back.
Accessing the Pak Ou Caves
The easiest way to get to the Pak Ou Caves is from Luang Prabang. There are numerous longboat tours from the town, and it takes about 2 hours to get there. There are also private boats you can rent if you want a more curated experience of the Mekong, the villages along the way, and the caves. If you’re renting a car in Laos, you can drive to the village of Pak Ou and hire a boat to the caves from there.
Luang Prabang can be reached by plane, car, or boat. The international airport is very modern and close to town, and incredibly easy to get in and out of. The number of flights and cities you can travel to and from are limited, but there are options, and they continue to grow. We flew into Luang Prabang from Hanoi, and flew out to Vientiane.