Setting Up Shop in Southeast Asia
Living in Singapore for 3 years confirmed what we already knew, we love being in Southeast Asia, and we want to make it a permanent part of our travels. After the pandemic issues started to subside, and we started to plan our move out of Singapore in May of 2021, we started asking ourselves where were we going to find our next little spot of paradise in the region. With a tropical climate year-round, fantastic food, incredible culture, a budget friendly cost of living, and a location that makes it easy and affordable to travel to so many great countries nearby, Malaysia really seemed like the logical choice. Oh, and it just so happens that Deborah is from Malaysia, and dad, aunts, uncles, and too many cousins to count are spread out all over the country as well. So, some things just fall into place, and it’s a great thing when it does.
From Singapore to Malaysia
In May 2021, COVID-19 restrictions on travel and entry were still in place in many countries. We decided that we wanted to move to Malaysia after leaving Singapore, and we had done enough research and fact-finding missions to know that we wanted to live on the island of Penang. However, with the restrictions in place, we were unsure how we would be able to make the logistics of the move work.
We ended up negotiating a cross-border move with a local company in Malaysia. The Singaporean company would pack our belongings in Singapore, work with the Malaysian government to get our personal goods approved for entry (Malaysia’s COVID-19 restrictions were very stringent at the time), do the transfer of goods to a Malaysian company without us being there, and store our belongings in a facility in Penang until we were able to return and find a new place to live. We were not able to see the storage facility, or our belongings upon arrival, and we lost the insurance on our goods once they were transferred to the Malaysian company. This was not ideal, but it was the best option we had during the strange times of the pandemic.
It wasn’t until January of 2023 when we were finally able to get back to Penang to start our house hunting search. Which means it had been over a year and a half since we had been able to see our personal items, and the storage facility they were packed away in. Needless to say we were very excited, and nervous, when we landed in Penang during Chinese New Year celebrations. Nervous to see the condition of our personal items, and excited to see if we could find a place to live that worked within our budget.
Why We Love Penang Island
Penang, Malaysia has been a coveted port for a very long time. Namely for many European countries operating in the Straits of Malacca in the 18th and 19th centuries. Between the Dutch, the Portuguese, and the English, it was England, who in 1826, claimed the territories of Penang, Malacca, and Singapore, as part of the Straits Settlement. These territories became quite valuable to the English, providing an easy transportation route for Malayan tin and rubber to Europe. In 1867, England made Malaysia a formal colony, which lasted until the Japanese invaded Malaysia during World War II.
Being a formal British colony, Penang has been a popular destination for Europeans for a very long time. With a vibrant blend of cultures, stunning natural beauty, affordable living costs, and until recently, a favorable residency program, Penang Island is among the top choice for expats wanting to live in Southeast Asia.
Regarding the residency program, some recent post-COVID developments have put a bit of a damper on Malaysia’s MM2H program (Malaysia My Second Home residency program), quadrupling the entry requirements for applicants in some cases. But due to a number of factors with the economy and political structure, it’s likely those new restrictive measures are in the process of reverting back soon.
Here are a few reasons why expats fall in love with Penang Island:
1. Cultural melting pot: Penang Island is known for a remarkable diversity of people and culture. The island features a unique fusion of Malaysian, Chinese, Indian, and European influences, creating a vibrant multi-cultural society. Expats can immerse themselves in a kaleidoscope of traditions, languages, cuisines, and festivals, offering an enriching and inclusive experience.
2. Food paradise: Penang Island is renowned as the food capital of Malaysia, and for good reason. The island offers a wide array of culinary delights, from mouthwatering street food, to elegant fine dining. The famous hawker centers are a haven for food lovers seeking authentic local dishes, such as Char Kuey Teow, Nasi Kandar, and Assam Laksa. Expats will delight in the affordable prices, and the opportunity to explore new flavors.
3. Geography: Centrally located in South East Asia, Malaysia occupies parts of the Malay Peninsula and the island of Borneo. Known for its beautiful beaches, and its primary rainforest, the landscape is diverse and unique. It’s also located in the heart of a region that has so much to offer around it. Flights to Thailand, Indonesia, Cambodia, Vietnam, and Singapore, to name a few, are inexpensive, and easy weekend travel.
4. Weather: This one depends on personal preferences, but ours like many expats, is to never spend another day in freezing temperatures. To the contrary, Malaysia is warm year-round, and often quite hot and humid. Again, we love this type of tropical climate, but others may not.
5. Health Care: Every January we plan our annual physical check-up at the Glen Eagles hospital in Penang. The health screening is done in a state of the art facility, and the doctors are very thorough. For a standard health screening, which includes physical examination, an EKG test with report, stress EKG (treadmill) with report, chest x-ray with report, ultrasound abdomen and pelvis, and blood and urine test, is RM 1200, or around $250 USD. All the tests take about 3 hours, and we get the results the same day.
6. Island Beach Lifestyle: Penang has great beaches to choose from, and the laidback island feel is exactly what we love. Thankfully many of the beaches have been preserved as fisherman beaches, as they have been for centuries, but there are also plenty of beaches both sides of the island to layout on the sand, swim in the water, and soak up the sun. Once the new Gurney Beach Project is complete, beach life in Penang will be thrust into a different level.
7. Artists Haven: Penang is known for it’s street art, which is mainly in and around George Town, but it can be found throughout the island. Beautifully designed wall murals, iron sculptures, and quirky paintings hidden for the unsuspecting eye, are wonderful to seek out. You can find artists work all over the city. Live music is also easy to find in Penang, including buskers on the street, and in numerous restaurants and bars.
The Budget
Our plan was to only be in Southeast Asia for 4-5 months out of the year. This meant that we needed to find a place that was big enough for all of our belongings, as well as for family to visit. We also needed to find a place that was affordable, as our travel budget was a fraction of what we were used to spending in Singapore.
Thankfully, Penang Malaysia fit that bill, because the price is right, and we happen to love it as much as we love Singapore. We knew we wanted to rent for at least a year before we purchased, giving us time to work out the particulars on long-term residency requirements. We also knew the general neighborhoods we wanted to be in, but now it was time to look at places and see what was the best fit for us.
Our goal was to find a 2 bedroom / 2 bath home, with a minimum of 1000 square feet, good walkability with decent amenities if it was a condo (pool and gym), and parking, for around 2000 Ringgit (RM) per month. It varies slightly day to day, but at the time of writing this article, RM 2000 was approximately $425 USD.
Let the Search Begin
Malaysia does not have a centralized multiple listing service (MLS) like most cities in the United States. This makes it more difficult to find real estate listings, as agents may market properties that are not their listings in the hopes of fishing for buyers. As a result, it is important to take the time to find a good agent who can help you navigate the market. We were lucky enough to find Jason Hau, who we would highly recommend. Once we landed with Jason, we were off and running.
There are lots of homes on the market in the neighborhoods we were looking in, ranging from 30+ years old, to brand new. Of course, the prices have a significant range as well, and since our wish list was pretty specific, 2bd/2ba – 1000 sqft condo with views, a pool, and walkability for RM 2000 or below, we really only had a few options to look at.
Neighborhoods We Considered
George Town: A recent addition to the UNESCO World Heritage Site, George Town on Penang Island is renowned for its rich architectural heritage, vibrant street art, diverse culinary scene, and warm hospitality – And we love it.
A magnificent fusion of history and architecture, one of the distinctive features of George Town is its well-preserved colonial architecture, which reflects its fascinating past. Strolling through the streets, you’ll encounter elegant mansions, British colonial buildings, and Chinese shop-houses adorned with colorful facades.
For all of these reasons, George Town is absolutely where we want to be long term. But for the short term, a variety of other reasons had us considering other neighborhoods as well.
Let’s Make a Beach
Gurney: Gurney Drive is a coastal promenade located in the northern part of George Town. It stretches along the coastline and offers beautiful views of the sea. The area is well-known for its vibrant atmosphere, modern shopping malls, and high-rise condominiums, which makes it a popular neighborhood for expats to live. Hence, there is a lot of foreign investment in the real estate market in Gurney,
There are also numerous seafood restaurants and cafes along Gurney Drive where you can enjoy a meal while taking in the scenic views.
Already a popular location for tourists and locals, Gurney Drive is now undergoing a significant transformation with the ambitious Gurney Beach project. The development aims to revitalize the picturesque Gurney Beach by using land fill to create a long beachside park. Per the development plans, besides a beach, the park would feature hawker centers, a north vantage point viewing deck, toilets, multistorey carpark, open-air carparks, a boardwalk, a water garden, a stormwater channel, and a water taxi jetty.
The project is also creating a separate island which will see commercial and residential development during the final phases of the project, which is scheduled to be done over the next two years.
From a Small Fishing Village to Luxury Resorts
Batu Ferringhi: Located along the northwestern coast of Penang, this pristine stretch of golden sands and azure waters has long been a popular destination.
Originally a sleepy fishing village, the transformation of Batu Ferringhi into a tourist hotspot began in the 1970s. The Malaysian government recognized the potential of its stunning beaches, and with the development of infrastructure and amenities, the area’s appeal as a vacation destination soared. Batu Ferringhi also has a huge night market, and tons of hawker stalls. Nowadays, most locals in Penang consider Batu Ferringhi to be mostly full of expats and tourists.
We enjoying visiting Batu Ferringhi, but the issue for us is the distance from George Town, and the airport is even further south.
A Residential Haven With Stunning Views
Tanjung Bungah: The name translates to “Flower Cape,” which reflects the area’s picturesque landscapes.
The neighborhood boasts a relaxed and laid-back atmosphere, making it an ideal escape from the bustling city life of Georgetown, Penang’s capital. Visitors can bask in the golden rays of the sun while unwinding on the sandy shores, or partake in an array of water sports, such as jet-skiing and parasailing, offered along the coast.
We really like staying in Tanjung Bungah as it’s quiet, the views are amazing, and the beaches are not overrun. But the walkability to restaurants, hawkers, cafes, grocery stores, and bars isn’t great. You need a mode of transportation to really make this neighborhood work.
MBF Tower
One of the tallest buildings in George Town at the time it was finished being built in 1994, the tower originally housed the Penang branch of MBF Finance Berhad.
MBF is one of the most interesting, and maybe even weird, designed buildings we’ve seen, depending on the angle you’re looking at it. But the parts of the structure that were a bit weird from the exterior, created great spaces from inside the unit, and that was a huge selling feature.
The unit was also a 3 Bd / 2 Ba, and closer to 1500 square feet, so that was a bonus, and the views were spectacular. It was also the best as far as proximity to George Town.
The downside for us was this unit was bit over budget at RM 2500 per month, and the building was showing it’s age and lack of maintenance in areas.
1 Persiaran Gurney
1 Persiaran Gurney, known as PG1, is a high rise condominium and was completed in 1988, so it was the oldest condo on our list. Our agent suggested we look at it because it checked all of our boxes, was on budget, the building was well maintained by the HOA, and they were currently completing an enhancement project of the amenities, mainly the pool and the gym.
The unit we looked at was a 2bd / 2ba, 1200 square foot condo, with beach and water views. The condo was on the 7th floor, a lower floor from some of the dramatic sea views we were seeing online. Still, the listing offered a nice view, and the layout of the condo was excellent.
We loved the kitchen, and the living and dining were a generous size. Additionally, both bedrooms had nice views of the beach across the street. The building was well-maintained, and the pool and gym were like new. The vibe of the building was also a plus. Groups of residents were sitting around playing games by the pool, and the doorman was very welcoming. The knocks for us on this unit were the lack of updating in the kitchen and bathrooms, and there was no outdoor space in the condo. You could open all the windows in the living room so it had an indoor outdoor feel, but no place to sit outside on beautiful night and watch the ships roll through the Straits.
Gurney Park Condominium
Located toward the north end of Gurney Drive, and smack dab between George Town’s most popular malls, Gurney Park Condominium (GPC), is a popular condo community for locals and expats. The views from most units are stunning, and the higher floors feature panoramic views of the sea, George Town, and the lush hills of Penang Island.
GPC had a unique leg up before we even started our tour with our realtor, as we were staying in an Airbnb in the complex already, and we were enjoying our stay. The short-term rental was on the 26th floor, and we loved the views from all angles. Once our realtor let us know there was a unit available on the 36th floor, and it was in our price range, we immediately wanted to see it.
Unfortunately, the unit was quite dated, brutal actually, but the views from the 36th floor were incredible. It was a 3Bd/2Ba, had the square footage we wanted, and a giant pool. We also knew that it would be a huge benefit for family to have so many restaurants, hawkers, local markets, and of course, the beach all within a few minutes.
The question was, could we whip this place into shape on our budget so that it was livable for us?
Our Place in Penang
After doing the math, we knew it wouldn’t take much to do some basic upgrades. After getting permission from the landlord to paint and do minor cosmetic upgrades, and buying a new refrigerator that we’ll take with us when we leave, we went for it. We signed on the dotted line for our new home in Penang. Aside from the numerous options we have for food and entertainment at our doorstep, the views, the amenities, and the ease of living at Gurney Park a portion of the year, were the final parts of the decision making process for the condo we now call home – at least for now. We couldn’t be more thrilled!