The Transcendent Beauty of Ha Long Bay
Most people recognize the landscape of Ha Long Bay before they even know the actual location or name. Featured in countless movies over the years, most recently in Hollywood’s blockbuster “Skull Island,” Ha Long Bay offers a dramatic backdrop that is irresistible to any director’s eye. While the images of Ha Long Bay are incredible on the big screen, witnessing it in person is undeniably even more dramatic and awe-inspiring.
“Descending dragon,” or “Where the dragon descends to the sea,” is the literal translation of Ha Long Bay, a magical jewel of Vietnam steeped in folklore and legend, truly a place that feels ancient and timeless.
What A View
There are many ways to see Ha Long Bay, but the most common method is by cruise. Yes, it can feel slightly touristy arriving at Ha Long Bay’s terminal in a transport bus, ready to check-in and board your ferry to the cruise ship. However, the moment you’re on the ferry and the view unfolds before you, everything changes. Off in the distance, you see the first set of limestone karsts, then the second, and as you approach, their grandeur becomes increasingly impressive. By the time you board your ship, your home for the next few days, you couldn’t care less about how touristy it might seem. All you can think about is the awe-inspiring setting and how excited you are to explore further. As it turned out, we couldn’t have been happier with our chosen mode of transportation. With breathtaking views in every direction, including from our stateroom and private patio, we were delighted that we splurged a little extra for this unforgettable experience.
“On A Boat!”
Numerous companies offer cruises in Ha Long Bay, although our guide mentioned that the pandemic had unfortunately forced many out of business. Cruise options range from overnight stays to week-long expeditions. We opted for a 3-night stay as we had a few other tours planned within our trip, and we felt it would provide ample time to explore different parts of the bay.
The boats offer a plethora of activities throughout the day, including kayaking, swimming, hiking tours, cave exploration, cooking classes, happy hour on the rooftop deck, and other engaging group activities. We were even surprised by an after-hours impromptu karaoke party with the staff, although I cannot confirm or deny my possible involvement in its initiation.
Cat Ba Island
One of the tours we signed up for involved a two-hour boat trip to Cat Ba Island, the largest of the 350+ islands comprising the Cat Ba Archipelago. “Woman’s Island” in Vietnamese, Cat Ba Island spans 100 square miles and offers much to see and explore. Evidence suggests human habitation on the island dates back over 6,000 years, and the dramatic rock formations characteristic of Ha Long Bay continue to dominate the island’s landscape. We docked at a small town on the northeastern side of the island and embarked on a 30-minute journey to the village via golf cart and bicycle. The town was quaint and seemingly self-sufficient, with many residents catering to the tourism influx generated by the cruises. Of course, as a quintessential tourist activity, this was my first encounter with snake whiskey.
The Caves
The caves of Ha Long Bay are absolutely stunning, and that’s just a glimpse of what we were able to see on this trip. Taking a separate transport boat, we made our way to a fascinating fishing village where residents live on man-made floating structures.
Historically, these floating fishing villages were commonplace, but in Vietnam’s more recent history, the government has intervened to regulate these communities.
From the fishing village, we boarded a very light and wobbly pontoon boat, propelled by one incredibly strong and capable Vietnamese woman. She skillfully rowed our boat in and around multiple caves.
Deborah, I, and the other passengers on our little boat were incredibly fortunate to have our mom with us on the trip. She ended up conversing with our guide and essentially translated an exceptional tour for us.
It was truly a magical experience, and we still have many more caves to explore! On our next trip, we will make it to Dau Go Cave, Me Cung Cave, and Sung Sot Cave.
Sometimes Science Doesn’t Sound as Cool
According to geologists, the glorious landscape of Ha Long Bay took approximately 500 million years to develop, a timeframe that is truly mind-boggling to me. While fascinating, I find the stories of the traders and pirates who roamed the bay over the centuries far more captivating.
However, the most enchanting tales are undoubtedly the legends surrounding the bay’s origin. One legend describes a dragon descending from the heavens and stomping on the earth with such force that mountains crumbled, creating vast valleys that subsequently filled with water, leaving only the mountain peaks visible above the surface.
Another legend tells of a dragon whose mighty tail whipped across the earth, tearing it apart and forming valleys and crevices. These depressions then flooded when the colossal beast plunged into the nearby sea.
Don’t get me wrong, I appreciate the wonders of science. But after witnessing Ha Long Bay firsthand, I’m inclined to believe the legend of the earth-stomping dragon.
