Exploring The Land of Ra
It’s on everyone’s bucket list. Giant pyramids, a colossal Sphinx, tombs that descend deep underground adorned with mesmerizing hieroglyphics – these are the iconic images of Egypt. The history, the unparalleled architecture, and the tales of powerful pharaohs from ancient Egypt captivate the imagination and intrigue. Finally reaching Luxor and Giza and witnessing these incredible treasures was truly unbelievable. Mind-blowing might be a better description, as all the dramatic photos and videos you’ve seen of each site since childhood are even more dramatic and breathtaking in person.
But first things first, you have to get there. Traveling to Egypt for the first time can be overwhelming, even for seasoned travelers. Numerous tour companies specialize in Egyptian travel, planning the entire trip for you. We run our own small travel tour company for family and friends, and countries we spend a lot of time in. Therefore, we understand this can be a very beneficial option for first-time visitors to a new destination. However, our concern with the available Egyptian tours was that they often felt too cookie-cutter, especially those offered during the time of year we were traveling. We found many lacked the personalization we desired. Therefore, we prefer more curated tours that focus on unique experiences, exceptional food, local wines, etc. After thoroughly researching all our options, we decided to plan this maiden voyage to Egypt independently, and there were definitely some challenges we had to overcome.
Ancient Thebes
The city of Luxor, or Thebes in ancient times, was once the capital of Upper Egypt. Powerful Pharaohs such as Rameses II and Tutankhamun once ruled this magnificent city. It’s truly amazing to see the temples where they reigned in the heart of the city, and the tombs where they were buried on the west bank of the Nile River in the Valley of the Kings.
“ Egypt has more wonders in it than any other country in the world, and provides more works that defy description than any other place.”
Herodotus
The first temple we visited was Karnak. Located on the east bank, the Karnak complex gives its name to the nearby, and partly surrounded, modern village of El-Karnak, just north of Luxor. The temple is incredibly vast, and touring it properly takes many hours, preferably broken up into separate visits.
Just walking into the temple, passing through the rows of ram-headed sphinxes, and then into the Great Hypostyle Hall is awe-inspiring. The Precinct of Amun-Re boasts an area of 50,000 sq ft with 134 massive columns arranged in 16 rows. It takes your breath away. The size and scale of the temples, pylons, and chapels are largely due to the centuries of construction and development. Over thirty Pharaohs contributed to Karnak, making it a truly unique temple experience and one of the top three most-visited sites in Egypt.
Luxor Temple was our next destination, and like Karnak, it’s difficult to describe in words. Also known as the Temple of Ipet-resyt, meaning the southern sanctuary, Luxor Temple is located right along the east bank of the Nile, and it is absolutely stunning, especially when illuminated at night. Built in stages over four hundred years, the temple served as a place of worship for the Theban triad of Amun (king of the gods), Mut (mother goddess), and Khonsu (moon god). It also played a crucial role in major festivals like Opet, a celebration of Amun’s renewal of kingship.
“Egypt is a great place for contrasts: splendid things gleam in the dust.”
Gustave Flaubert
The entrance of the temple is incredibly impressive, featuring two towering pylons (monumental gateways) adorned with hieroglyphs and scenes depicting pharaohs victorious in battle. An elevated platform in front of the pylons provides the perfect vantage point for admiring the entrance and capturing unforgettable photos – it truly rivals some of the world’s most Instagrammable locations. After passing through the pylons, you enter another grand hypostyle hall, supported by colossal columns, which leads to a series of courtyards, chapels, and sanctuaries, all adorned with intricate hieroglyphics covering every wall. While the temple is awe-inspiring at any time of day, experiencing it illuminated at night is truly magical. We recommend arriving an hour before sunset.
The Valleys of the Kings and Queens
On our third day in Luxor, we caught the local ferry from the east bank and crossed over the Nile, a journey that took about ten minutes and was very inexpensive. We then caught a taxi on the west bank to visit both the Valley of the Kings and Queens.
It was around one hundred and ten degrees Fahrenheit on this late morning as we were dropped off at the bottom of the hill leading to the Valley of the Kings, which serves as the formal entrance and ticket center. After purchasing our tickets (prices vary depending on the time of year and the specific tombs you wish to see – more on that later), we opted to skip the cart that drives you up the slight incline. Instead, we decided to enjoy the easy ten-minute walk up to the tombs, most of which are easily accessible once you’re within the Valley.
While we explored many tombs throughout the day, including those of Tutankhamun, Ramses IV, and Nefertari, all of which were incredibly impressive, our favorite was the tomb of Seti I. It was also the most expensive tomb to enter, as it is considered one of the most magnificent and well-preserved pharaoh’s tombs ever discovered. As you descend the steep stairwell to reach the entrance of the tomb, you’re already awestruck by the depth you’ve already traversed.
Then you begin the long, steady descent into the glorious burial site, meticulously constructed thousands of years ago. Every inch of each hallway is adorned with vibrant paintings and hieroglyphics depicting scenes from the pharaoh’s life and their journey to the afterlife. The scale of these paintings and the intricate workmanship are truly awe-inspiring. As you reach the final hallway, you encounter separate chambers and areas within the burial chamber, culminating in the breathtaking astronomical ceiling, showcasing constellations and deities associated with the afterlife.
The tomb was discovered in 1817 by the Italian explorer Giovanni Battista Belzoni, providing invaluable insights into ancient Egyptian funerary practices and religious beliefs. Unfortunately, over the years, the tomb has suffered some degradation due to exposure to the elements, theft, and improper handling. Nevertheless, the tomb remains an incredible sight to behold, and current conservation efforts are effectively preserving its historical significance and current condition.
The Great Pyramids of Giza
After Luxor, we took a short flight to Cairo and arranged car service to transport us to our hotel in Giza. The journey took approximately 45 minutes, crossing the Nile River again before arriving in Giza. As we entered the city, the pyramids simply took our breath away. It’s an incredible sight to behold – leaving the freeway, entering a bustling, urban part of Giza, crossing a massive overpass, and suddenly there they are. Just sitting there, for approximately 4,500 years. It’s an awe-inspiring, exhilarating, and almost unbelievable experience at first. The Pyramids of Giza are essentially colossal tombs built for pharaohs. The largest pyramid, the tomb of Khufu, is the sole survivor of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.
Inside the Great Pyramid of Khufu
One of the truly awe-inspiring experiences you can still have while touring the Great Pyramid is climbing your way through the tunnels and main hallways of Khufu, all the way up to the tomb. It begins about two stories up with a narrow, four-foot-high entrance into the pyramid, forcing you to stoop low, symbolically entering the underworld.
As we navigated the various corridors, we began to ascend through incredibly narrow passageways, often having to crouch down and even crawl on all fours. The openings were so small that we frequently had to wait for others ahead of us and barely had room to squeeze past those descending, as there was minimal space to maneuver.
Finally, after a somewhat harrowing trek through the tiny tunnel, we reached the grand hallway. This led us to the top level, which then required us to crawl for about ten yards to reach the King’s Chamber. The final chamber was surprisingly small, containing a massive granite sarcophagus (though the mummy itself is long gone).
On the day we made this trek, the outside temperature was 110 degrees Fahrenheit. I can only imagine how hot it was inside the pyramid, and it certainly felt unsafe. People were starting to feel the effects of the heat, with some experiencing a combination of heat exhaustion and claustrophobia. Still, once we emerged, we were incredibly glad we had undertaken this challenging experience, as it was truly unforgettable.
Standing Watch
Another amazing part of our Giza experience was seeing the equally incredible sculpture guarding the giant pyramids. The enigmatic Sphinx, a mythical creature with a lion’s body and a human head, carved from a single piece of limestone, remains a captivating mystery, its purpose and age still debated by archaeologists. Standing guard over the Giza Pyramids for what seems like an eternity, the Sphinx symbolizes the power and wisdom of the ancient Egyptians and all their remarkable achievements.
Logistics
As we’ve alluded to, there are numerous sites to see in Egypt, spread across a fairly large country. This necessitates some travel planning and logistical knowledge upfront if you choose to forgo a tour company. For instance, you can fly into Cairo and then take a taxi or car service to visit the Pyramids at Giza, Sakkara (including Djoser’s Pyramid), and Memphis. Afterward, you’ll need to return to the airport and take a short flight south to Luxor.
Most travelers who wish to explore the temples and Valley of the Kings in Luxor, as well as Abu Simbel and other temples in Aswan, opt for a river cruise along the Nile. These cruises vary in duration, typically lasting four days, though longer options are available.
Since our trip coincided with the end of summer, with daily temperatures consistently reaching 107-110 degrees Fahrenheit, we weren’t enthusiastic about a Nile cruise. We had read numerous reviews about the quality of air conditioning on the boats and other factors that made us believe a fly-in/fly-out itinerary would be more comfortable during this time of year.
While the cost of travel, accommodation, transportation, and entry fees was significantly lower during the off-season (typically October to April), it also made us more conspicuous to locals seeking to offer tours, taxi rides, camel rides, and other services that contribute to the local economy. This is a common experience in many tourist destinations, and we’re quite accustomed to it, but at times, the persistent solicitation felt a bit more aggressive than usual. This, of course, is where the assistance of a local tour group and guide can be invaluable. Nevertheless, we successfully navigated transportation between various sites, including air travel, taxis, and ferry rides, while also securing entry tickets, making dinner reservations, and exploring local markets.