The Sacred Pak Ou Caves
Along the Mekong River, about 25 kilometers north of Luang Prabang, lie two unique caves: Tham Ting and Tham Theung, collectively known as the Pak Ou Caves. These sacred sites, filled with thousands of Buddha statues, are believed to have been a haven for Buddhist worshipers in the region since the 8th century, predating the official adoption of Buddhism as the state religion in Laos.
After Buddhism became the national religion, a custom emerged: every new year, Buddhists would bring a statue to the caves, resulting in the impressive collection we see today.
Pulling up to the dock in our longboat, the lower cave is more open, and just a short walk up some very steep steps reveals numerous Buddhas placed throughout. The upper cave is not only more secluded and private, but it’s a decent hike up a stairway, with a dramatic rise up the hill.
Once at the top, the views are magnificent, and the true cave-like entrance is very mysterious. As you enter the cave, you notice it extends quite a ways back, with multiple areas displaying clusters of Buddhas with different mudras.
The lower cave was fairly crowded during our tour, as multiple boats had pulled in, but we somehow timed the upper cave perfectly, finding it completely empty. The cave entrance is very dark, and it gets even darker as you delve deeper. Once your eyes adjust, you begin to see the multitude of statues in all shapes and sizes, suddenly appearing all around you.
Cruising On The Mekong
Starting in China, flowing through Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, and emptying into the South China Sea, the Mekong River is the longest river in Southeast Asia, and the 12th longest in the world. We were excited to take a four-hour cruise on the river on a classic longboat, stopping at multiple villages and the Pak Ou Caves. Like so many important rivers throughout the world, the Mekong is an indispensable resource for countless people whose daily lives and livelihoods depend on the health of the river.
A Stop At Ban Xang Hai, aka Whiskey Village
Ban Xang Hai village is often touted as a tourist stop for inexpensive local goods, perhaps even a shot of snake or scorpion whiskey. However, our experience was quite different. The handwoven fabrics, such as scarves, napkins, and table runners, displayed throughout the village were extraordinary, all crafted onsite in the respective shops. Witnessing this live/work community in action, and observing the production of these beautiful textiles, was truly incredible.
Also worth seeing while in Ban Xang Hai is the Sang Hai Buddhist Temple located at the end of the main corridor of shops.
Luang Prabang
Once the capital of Lan Xang, a Lao kingdom that encompassed present-day Laos, Luang Prabang remained the region’s religious center even after King Setthathirath moved the capital to Vientiane in the mid-16th century.
Today, Luang Prabang is an incredibly quaint and picturesque town nestled at the confluence of the Nam Khan and Mekong Rivers. In fact, Luang Prabang comprises 58 adjacent villages, 33 of which are designated as part of the UNESCO Town of Luang Prabang World Heritage Site.
We loved the pace and feel of life in Luang Prabang. The town boasts numerous beautiful Buddhist temples, bustling night markets, stunning Lao-colonial architecture, and amazing food.
Luang Prabang still retains a sense of tranquility, largely untouched by mass tourism and large-scale development, although signs of increased development are beginning to emerge in certain areas. Additionally, the cost of living remains remarkably low considering the level of infrastructure and quality of life. It’s a truly beautiful place, and we look forward to coming back soon.
Accessing the Pak Ou Caves
The easiest way to get to the Pak Ou Caves is from Luang Prabang. There are numerous longboat tours available from the town, with the journey typically taking around 2 hours. Alternatively, you can rent a private boat for a more curated experience, allowing you to explore the Mekong River, visit villages along the way, and then visit the caves at your own pace. If you’re renting a car in Laos, you can drive to the village of Pak Ou and hire a boat to the caves from there.
Luang Prabang is accessible by plane, car, or boat. The international airport is modern, conveniently located near the town, and offers easy access to and from the city. While the number of flights and destinations served is currently limited, options are steadily increasing. We chose to fly into Luang Prabang from Hanoi and out of Vientiane.